Canon 380EX Flash Plus a G10 -- the Perfect Combination

Immediately after purchasing my G10, I started looking around for a flash to use on it. Canon recommends their current crop of E-TTL flashes (220EX, 430EX II, & 580EX II). Actually, you could refer to these flashes as E-TTL II flashes since they incorporate a couple of additional refinements not found in some of the older E-TTL flashes. In particular, Canon enhanced metering and the way distance data is used. You can get an excellent overview E-TTL, E-TTL II, and a lot more in this EOS flash article.

Because of the price, the 430EX II and 580EX II are a real mismatch for the G10. Last I checked, the 430EX II and 580EX II had street prices of $270 and $420 respectively. Since I don't own a Canon DSLR, spending that much on a point and shoot flash just doesn't make sense.

The 220EX is a nearly perfect flash for the G10. It is small, lightweight, and significantly increases the flash range. Unfortunately, you can't bounce the flash. For me, this is a deal breaker. My biggest justification for purchasing the G10 was to use it in places where a DSLR is awkward, like family gatherings. Indoors, a bounce flash makes all the difference in the world. Our dog Scout was uncharacteristically tired enough to pose for a few shots showing how much difference a bounce flash can make.

The first shot was taken with the built in flash. The G10 is in Program mode (mode dial set to P), the ISO dial set to 80, and exposure compensation set to 0.

The second shot was taken with the 380EX mounted. The settings are the same as above. Notice ****

The third shot was taken with the 380EX head tilted up to bounce light off the ceiling. The settings are the same,with one critical difference, some flash compensation was added.

 differencea bounce shot, 

The G10 is a fantastic camera for indoor family and friends photos

Part 3: In Search of the Perfect Camera Case for the Canon G10

This is the third, and final, installment of my Canon G10 camera case saga. If you haven't read the first, you can find it here, and the second here. I suppose it is final because I'm really tired of looking and did actually make a selection. It is also final because it really isn't final. If I come across another case I like better I'll probably buy it.

I decided I needed to really pound the pavement to see if I could find a case I liked. I went to just about any store I could think of that sells cameras. Unfortunately, the G10 size of camera is not very common. In some stores, there was a wall of cases for sub-compact, another wall for DSLRs, but few options for cameras that fit the in-between sizes range like the G10.

Cases not Chosen

So why would I include a bunch cases I didn't buy in this list. Well, my goal here was to help save some of those who read this a bit of time. You may like these cases enough to give them a try.

The Lowepro Z10 and Z20 (pictured together) would be very good choices in terms of quality. The materials are good, the workmanship is good, the padding is good... The Z10 is a good fit for the camera, but there isn't much room left over. The Z20 is a better fit and would allow you to stuff the neck strap into the top of the case. As you can see from the picture, the cases are about the same width, but the Z20 is taller. Definitely go with the Z20 if you want a place to put the neck strap.

So why didn't I like them. Well, the zippers are a pain to use. Because the whole top doesn't open, getting the camera out for that all important shot is just too problematic, especially if it is on your belt. If you're not carrying the camera on your belt, one of these would be a good choice.

Next on the try-for-yourself list is the Lowepro D Res 120. It does have a top access, so pulling the camera out is a bit easier. It is

 also a bit taller so you'll have room for the neck strap. Unfortunately, it too has a zipper and I just don't like fiddling with zippers when the case is attached to my belt. The D Res 120 case is also a bit mushy in terms of the materials. The Z10 and Z20 are more rigid due to the use of heavier materials. Had the materials been a bit more rigid, I probably would have purchased it and given it a try.

The last try-for-yourself recommendation is the Lowepro D-Pods 50. The materials are of the wetsuit variety, so it is a very flexible case. The padding is good, but way too mushy for my taste. I almost purchased this case, but gave the following 2 cases the slight advantage. And the winners are:

And the winner (Actually Winners): Tamrac  5689 & 5692

OK, why 2 winners? Well, I have 2 applications. The first is to carry the camera around on short outings. For that, the 5689 is perfect. I like the materials, though they could be a bit stiffer, and the zipper free opening with just a velcro latch. I also like the belt loop. which allows the case to be attached to the belt without taking the belt off. It has a double velcro system that is perhaps it is not quite as secure as a sewn in belt loop, but you won't be scaring anyone when you start to undo your belt either. It is also just deep enough to hold the camera and the neck strap or, my preference, a hand strap. It has an extra storage pouch for a memory card, but that's about all the extra stuff you're going to carry with this case. Here are a few pictures of the 8689 to give you an idea:

Tamrac 5689 with G10 halfway inserted

Tamrac 5689 closed

  

Tamrac 5689 belt loop which is secured to case with velcro and resecured with a velcro tab

The Tamrac 5692 is just about identical to the 5689 in size, however, it has an additional little storage pouch on the front of the case. This would allow you to add an extra battery, perhaps some AA batteries for an external flash, memory card... The case flap also has velcro but adds a plastic latch. I'm not sure why they have both. I think the latch might just get in the way, but if you're concerned about pick-pockets, the latch should give you a bit of extra confidence. The belt loop attachment is also of the variety that does not require taking your belt off. Finally, it is also fitted for and comes with a shoulder strap. I bought this one to use on my motorcycle, where I can just throw the shoulder strap around my head and arm and have easy access to the camera. Here are a few pics to give you a better idea of what the case looks like:

Tamrac 5692 w/G10 halfway in

Tamrac 5692 closed and latched

  

Tamrac 5692 showing the belt loop which secures with snaps and velcro

Part 2: In Search of the Perfect Camera Case for the Canon G10

As promised, here's the second installment in my search for the perfect Canon G10 camera case. If you haven't read Part 1, you will find it here. 

Case No. 2: Canon PSC-5000

The PSC-5000 is a case designed for the G7 and G9. Although Canon doesn't seem to recommend it as an option for the G10, I think it is worth looking at. It is a funky design with a few shortcomings, but you will fall in love with the quality and workmanship of this case.

Ok, lets talk about the shortcomings first. The camera fits into the case pocket very nicely, but it is about 2 or 3 mm too tall. This makes lid flap sit just a bit too high and, if you look closely at the picture of the camera closed in the case, you'll notice the top flap is sticking up just a bit. I'm just guessing here, but I think the case would form to the camera over time and this issue would go away -- assuming it is an issue for you.

Shortcoming number 2 is related to its design. It is, well, different in an odd sort of way. Once you put the camera into the case, you flip up a lower flap, and fasten a top flap to the lower flap. I don't think all this flap action is really necessary, but it is different. One person's different is another persons funky, so it might not be a problem for you. I would have just preferred a single flap over the top that fastened on the side of the case. As a side note, the flaps use those little magnetic snaps that don't really snap.

Shortcoming number 3 was the deal breaker for me, and it all hinges on the fact that I prefer to use a wrist strap instead of a neck strap. Because the case is rigid and the fit is snug, you can't get the camera out of the case by lifting only one side at a time. Short of standing on my head and enlisting the aid of gravity, it wasn't easy to get the camera out when it was on my belt. If you'll be using a neck strap, you can tug on both sides to pull it out easily. If you do use a neck strap and want to wear this case on your belt, you might give some thought to where you'll be putting the neck strap, there isn't room in the case. 

Ok, now the positives. This is a first rate case. The workmanship is top notch and the leather is very nice. They even provide a cute little pouch for your battery and extra memory card. A very nice touch. As mentioned prior, it is a rigid case, so protection from sharp objects should be very good.

All in all, the PSC-5000 would be a classy way to carry the camera around, but it isn't all that functional. It would look good sitting in a coach purse or hanging around your neck when you toss the Ferrari's keys to the valet. For me, back to the store it goes.

Ranking: A+ for quality and workmanship, A for funky appeal, C+ for camera fit, and a C+/B for protection. Like the PSC-85, the rigid case will help with sharp object intrusion into the case (B), but should the case get dropped, there isn't much padding (C+).

Camera Case No. 3: You can find the third and final posting here.

Update:

This case is commonly available at places like bhphotovideo.com, at least for now. Since it was designed for the G7 & G9, it probably won't be available for that much longer.

In Search of the Perfect Camera Case for the Canon G10

I am really picky about my camera cases. Not so much because I have a set criteria, but because there are so many intangibles associated with picking a camera case. It's a little like choosing your doctor. Yes, you heard me right. There are things about a case you just can't put your finger on. The feel, the materials, the workmanship... I always have the same feeling when I choose a new doctor, but that's a different blog. Let me just say that in both instances I start out clueless, get a little smarter after a bit of research, then just pick one, or two, or three. Now you know the truth. I have three cases for my Nikon D700. Luckily, I don't have that many doctors at the moment.

I thought a chronicle of the process might be useful to others. If I can help you choose a good case for your G10, fantastic! Just don't ask me about doctors.

Camera Case No. 1: The Canon PSC-85

I started this quest like all others, by researching all the options. I finished by getting tired of researching all the options and just bought one. It was, however, the only one that had official documentation that stated it would fit the G10. Canon didn't say it would fit, but Cameta Camera did, via their ebay ad. Well, it kind of fits, like the suit I wore to my high school prom fits. Tight. Very tight. Seam ripping tight. Otherwise, its a great case.

As you can see from the picture, the camera is as wide as the outside of the case. Because the case is a little deeper (front to back) than the camera, it is able to deform from its original shape and become wider. For a really soft case, that might not be a problem. What the pictures don't show, however, is that this case is of the more rigid type. There is some kind of flexible plastic sandwiched between the outer and inner layers. It does give a bit, but not without a fight. The camera is a bit too long as well, so when you finally wrestle the camera into the case, the flap misses the velcro by about 3/4".

Aside from the fit issue, this would be a great case for a smaller camera. The materials and workmanship are very good. There isn't a lot of padding, but there is some. As stated earlier, it is semi rigid, so it would probably keep sharp objects from poking through and damaging the camera's display or lens cover. Personally, I'm in the thin/rigid camp myself. The size of the padding does add up quickly, in terms of the volume you have to carry around.

The velcro latch is also well thought out. The velcro is quite wide and very secure once it is pressed down. I also like the small zipper pouch with just enough room for a memory card. If you were thinking of packing batteries around, it wouldn't be large enough for you. Since the G10's battery is probably going to outlast me, I'm not going to be buying a spare. The PSC-85 also has a belt loop. The loop is fairly rigid and securely sewn to the back of the case.

I really like this case. It's a shame I don't have a camera to fit it.

Ranking: A+ for quality and workmanship, D- for G10 fit, and a very subjective C+/B for protection. The C+ is for drops because there should probably be a bit more padding for that. The B is for sharp object penetration, which should be good due to the rigid inner layer.

Go to Part 2

Getting Around the Canon G10's 1 Second Av Mode Limitation

If you're a user of aperture priority mode (Av) on the Canon G10 and like to take long exposures, it won't take you long to figure out that the G10 limits the shutter to a maximum of 1 second. If you want to use exposures longer than 1 second for a given aperture, you'll need to use shutter priority mode (Tv).

At this point, you might tempted to say something like $%&!@#$..., but hold that thought. Canon actually gave us a very nice little feature that makes the Tv mode a bit like a hybrid Tv/Av mode. Here are the steps:

Step 1: Setup the Shot

Spin the mode dial to put the camera into Tv mode, choose the focus mode, set the zoom... In other words, frame the picture as if you were going to take the shot.

Step 2: Meter the Shot

Put the focus point on target and press the AE Lock/FE Lock button instead of the shutter button (it's the little round asterisk * looking button on the top right corner of the camera while looking at the back). Now the cool part starts.

One of the things you've done here is tell the camera to take a meter reading and, if you look quickly before it disappears, you'll see a meter popup on the display that shows a dual shutter/aperture scale. 

If it disappeared before you got a good look, don't worry. You'll see it again in step 3. As a side note, the asterisk next to the shutter speed on the display indicates you've locked the exposure.

Step 3: Rotate the Control Ring

When you rotate the control ring (the rotating ring outside of the FUNC. SET button extravaganza) the G10 will display the dual meter and allow you to set the either shutter or aperture to your liking before you shoot. Since you've locked the exposure, the G10 will move the shutter and aperture settings together in its attempt to maintain correct exposure.

Step 4: Shoot

Re-target the subject and press the shutter release.

OK, I know it would have been nice to have shutter settings longer than 1 second while in Av mode. You have to admit though, that changing the shutter and aperture while maintaining the correct exposure is a nice feature.

Two Parting Comments

First, you can intentionally under or over expose things if you like by setting the shutter far to high or too low prior to step 2 above. When you do, the camera will let you move the shutter speed beyond the area of correct exposure. Play with it and you'll see what I mean. In reality though, it would probably be easier to just use the exposure compensation dial instead.

Second, you can access the same dual meter gizmo if you press AE/FE Lock when in Av mode or Manual mode, however, the behavior is a bit different in each. In Av mode, you can't move outside of the correct exposure bounds. In M mode, the aperture and shutter are never really locked, but the dual meter does appear.

Why You Need to use the Canon G10's Custom Settings (C1 & C2)

I started out this post thinking I need to write an entry describing how to use the G10's Custom Settings (C1 or C2 on the Mode dial). After I looked over the manual, however, it was so straightforward that I changed my mind. Canon has given G10 users a custom settings feature that is so straightforward to use that everyone, except the point-it-and-shoot-at-it crowd, should be using C1 and C2.

I suspect a large number of G10 users will ignore the little C1 and C2 settings on their mode dial, but they shouldn't. Even casual users could take advantage of it. "Why?", you ask. Well, two reasons.

Reason No. 1: It is Faster, A Lot Faster!

Let's just say you have been using the G10 in Landscape Scene mode and decide you would like to customize a few things. So you go into Aperture mode, tweak a number of things (some of which are buried in hard to find nooks and crannies). Now you have it perfect, just the way you like it.

The trouble is, the next time you shoot a landscape may be months later. All your settings have been change 10-times over. Are you really going to stand there for the next 30 minutes fiddling with the camera while your bored kids are jumping up and down on your last nerve, or the wonderful shadows and bright colors have been flattened by incoming clouds? Of course not. You are going to save your settings to C1 or C2, turn your Mode dial to C1 or C2 and shoot.

Reason No. 2: You'll Make Less Mistakes!

I have a hard drive full of rejected images that would be fantastic, except one or two little settings. In the vast majority of those cases I wasn't using a custom setting to configure the camera. Instead, I did it the old fashion way, setting each parameter manually.

Chances are, you are going to forget one or two little settings if you try to set everything from memory every time. Don't! Save your most commonly used settings to C1 or C2 and simply spin that little mode dial.

A Note to Canon

I really wish there were more custom settings, perhaps C1 to C10. No, I don't want a bigger dial, but I do wish I could save some of the settings by name and recall them. Perhaps a way to name them and copy them to C1 or C2. Once you start using the custom settings, it is really hard to narrow things down to 2 sets. Please don't make us wait for a G11.

The first post to my new Canon G10 Tips & Tricks blog! It's a great camera but, due to the number of options, can be a difficult little beast to master. Hopefully you'll find a bit of help here which will result in many enjoyable images.

-Roy

Using the G10's Custom Colors Picture Settings

Why Use Custom Color Settings on the G10?

Quite a few people have moved up to the Canon G10 from their compact point & shoot (P&S) cameras. Unfortunately, they find the G10's output a bit too neutral for their taste. I consider neutral output a strength, allowing me to modify the image in post processing to fit my taste. However, there are many who don't want to spend time in post processing or don't want to post process their pictures at all. Here's where the Canon G10's flexibility really shines. In this post I'll show you in a step-by-step step fashion how to create custom settings to match whatever output you want.

What are Custom Color Settings and How Do You Use Them on the Canon G10

Custom Color settings can be used in any mode (except AUTO and SCN). For example, you might be shooting landscape and want the greens to "pop" a bit more, people with darker skin tones, more sharpening, contrast, or saturation. You get the idea.

Using Custom Color settings is easy but getting them right is another matter. I'll give you a method later in the post that should address the "getting it right" part (I changed my mind, I think that would be better done in another post). For now, I'll simply show you how to use them. Here's the step-by-step:

1. Turn the camera mode dial to one any one of the following modes: C1, C2, M, Av, Tv,  P, panoramic stitch assist, or video record. As I mentioned earlier, the AUTO and SCN (Scene) modes can not be customized. Allowing AUTO and Scene mode customizations would really defeat their purpose anyway.
2. Press the FUNC. SET button on the back of the camera. Note: once the FUNC. SET options are displayed on the screen, the little ring around the FUNC. SET button allows you to move the selection left, right, up, or down. This is the little ring with MF at the top, timer at the bottom...
3. Move down to My Colors, which are turned off by default. At this point, your menu should look like the following:You should note a couple of things here. First "My Colors" is the term Canon uses for its customizable image parameters and it is turned off in the picture above. Second, there are a number of default settings that can be used, including V or Vivid colors, N or Neutral... Vivid might be just what you're looking for, so give it a try. If not, explore the other color settings to see if they will meet your needs. If not, then go totally custom with steps 4, 5 and 6.
4. Move the My Colors selection all the way right to select the C or Custom Color setting. Take note of the [DISP.] listed right after the words Custom Color. The DISP. button is how you access each of the customizable parameters available in the G10.
5. Press the DISP. button. At this point, you should see the first customizable parameter, Contrast, available. Pressing up or down, will move you to a different parameter. Pressing left or right will adjust each parameter.
6. Press the FUNC. SET button when you're done.

Keep a Few Things in Mind

There are really 4 sets of custom colors -- I'll use the term set since Canon has no name for it. Set 1 is used in M, Av, Tv, P, and Panoramic Stitch Assist modes. Set 2 is used in Video Record mode. Set 3 is used in C1 mode. Set 4 is used in C2 mode.

If the whole Set # thing throws you off, just think of it like this. M, Av, Tv, P, and Panoramic Stitch Assist modes all share the same Custom Color settings. C1, C2, and Video Recording mode all have their own Custom Color settings.

Also keep in mind that you can turn off custom colors any time you like by simply using the steps above and selecting the OFF option rather than the C option. Your not in any danger of getting the camera in some kind of mode that you can't get it out of.

Finally, I suggest you use the C1, and C2 modes for playing with Custom Colors. C1 and C2 are, after all, the modes designed just for "Customization". For example, you might use C1 to set the camera up for outdoor and landscape photos and C2 to customize things for typical indoor family photos. The biggest benefit to using C1 and C2 for this is that they also save other settings beyond just the image parameters available in Custom Colors. I feel a C1/C2 Custom Settings blog entry coming on.

Update: As Bob reminded me in his comment, Custom Colors will not work when you are using the G10's RAW mode. The whole point of raw mode is to get output directly from the image sensor, without any modifications. Modifying the RAW output beforehand with your Custom Colors would defeat its whole purpose. 

--Thanks Bob